Yesterday… it was a lot of road time, but the bit in the middle was great fun!
The drive through the mountains with the St. Lawrence River showing up now and then beside us reminded me of both Newfoundland and driving around Lake Superior. Clare and Robin are right - this is a pretty amazing country and we should definitely explore it more. We reached the point on our journey where we could not see the other side of the river, not because of weather, but because it was too far away! None of us have any memories of seeing a river so wide that you could not see the other side! Lakes, yes, rivers no!
Boring, sorta fun fact alert (because Clare thinks she can throw stuff into my blog whenever she wants, just because she’s typing for me!): the tide affects the St Lawrence River all the way to Trois Rivières (half-way between Montréal and Québec City), and the waters around Tadoussac are where fresh water from the Great Lakes and salt water from the Atlantic Ocean meet. Don’t you feel smarter now?
We finally reached a lookout point called Pointe Noire, just before the ferry to Tadoussac, and took a few minutes to check it out. It really did feel like looking out over the ocean. From there we could easily see the fjord up the Saguenay River and the two ferry’s crossing back and forth to Tadoussac. It’s not exactly the Chi-Cheemaun, but it was free! It takes longer to load the ferry than it does to actually cross the river! We had enough time to get out of the car, go up to the top floor to take a pictures, and get back to the car to drive off.
We had planned to drive further east to a Canada Parks marine interpretive centre, but we were much later than we’d hoped, so we skipped that and went straight to a ticket booth for the zodiac whale watching tours. Robin had chosen this over a big boat tour as it seemed more fun and more likely to see whales (smaller so it can get closer, and lower on the water). I’m in!
Ok, must back-track just a little here. Tadoussac is considerably cooler than Beaupré and Québec City (like at least 15° cooler than we were used to). Clare was loving it. The woman who sold us the tickets said the températures out on the water can be about 15° cooler than that (ie around 5°C / 40°F). She said we would definitely want a hooded sweater and long pants to enjoy it - this turned out to be excellent advice! However, when asked about footwear, she said we needed shoes and socks, but they wouldn’t likely get too wet - more on THAT later! Naturally, Clare and Robin had both left sweaters at the hotel. Clare had socks, Robin did not (oh and Clare had no long pants but said she’d be fine, she’s always too hot anyways). They spent the hour they had going to three different souvenir shops to find a hooded sweater each, and socks for Robin. Now while I normally make fun of the human need to buy trinkets on trips, this one made sense to me - they both found things they actually liked and might have bought anyways, but they also soaked those items (literally and figuratively) with the memories of the boat trip! Cool.
Have I bored you yet? Ok, ok I’ll get on with it. We finally headed to the dressing area where we were given these beautiful orange outfits to wear, and then high-tail it across the marina in them to the actual boat. Both Clare and Robin were sweating and said they better be right about it being cooler on the water!
Our Guide was fantastic - great sense of humour, reminding us that we WILL get wet, VERY WET. She repeated this numerous times. After the normal rules etc, we were off. The boat sped off into the wind, hitting the white-capped waves head-on, bouncing us along and spraying water everywhere. To say we were wet is an understatement and in less than five minutes Clare’s shoes were not just wet, but FULL of water. They HAD thought to bring a plastic bag for me but forgot to put me in it. I was still in the side pouch of the backpack you saw me in in yesterdays sneak peek photo. Needless to say, I was as wet as their shoes!
When we reached our first stopping point to look for whales our Guide asked if we were all fully aware that it was salt water here. Yup, we all know now if we didn’t before. She was full of excellent information about whales, the types that are in these waters, where they eat, give birth etc. She shared all of this as we sat rocking on the waves, waiting and watching for the spout of water that indicates a whale is about to surface. We DID see whales. We saw a few seals, a minky whale, a humpbacked whale (named Guadeloupe whom we saw multiple times). There was lots of waiting time between all these sightings, but still. She said the whales all have different markings and so are identifiable, which is how she can tell us his name. Just then he appeared again, not 50 feet from the boat (on our side too), first head, then his back, and then she said “wait for it…” it seemed like forever and then his massive tail flipped out, exactly like all the stereotypical pictures you see. It was amazing!

Shortly after that sighting we headed back, this time with the wind, so not nearly as bouncy or as wet. Not that it mattered at that point! Robin and Clare were both thankful for their new sweaters and socks. It had definitely been 15° cooler out there! It had been outright cold, but it had been oh so much fun. So worth it!
Once we dropped off the orange suits, which had mostly done their job, we headed to the car where I giggled as I watched them both wring out socks and t-shirts alike (water had gone down the neck area for both of them). They may not have brought sweaters but they had both brought an extra t-shirt, so we’re both happy to get warm and dry.
After a quick snack, our time in Tadoussac was sadly over. I think we all agree that we could have spent a few days there at least! The drive home was rough, as I said last night, we don’t need to rehash that one. Moving on
Today… We slept in! Even I agree that that was kinda nice. The plan for the day was simple, hit a couple spots that we hadn’t made it to yet, and then head back to pack.
First stop, a small bakery/café here in Beaupré that we’d read about on day one. We had a nice lunch there and moved on.

Second stop was sort of three spots in one. We had passed this basilica (Basilica of Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupré) every day except yesterday, and every day we had to laugh at the building out in front. Yes, we know it is in French, and that souvenirs is plural etc, but that first day we passed it going 90km all we saw was “souvenir toilets” and have joked every day since, that we had to go get us some souvenir toilets (and take this photo of course). Since we were there, we did go inside this beautiful building and admire the architecture. People were taking photos inside but that felt wrong, and reminded me of the cathedral in Cusco where security chased you down if they sensed a camera on. When we’d finished there, we headed to the third stop at this location; the tunnel under the highway that lead to the park by the river. Seemed like a good idea, except we were being swarmed by little black bugs, so we ditched that idea and headed back to the car.


Our next stop of the day was Montmorency Falls. We’d passed it many times, but felt it deserved a proper look. Note, putting “Montmorency Falls” into the GPS versus “Montmorency Falls Park” get you to two very different locations. We drove on a bridge over the falls and were informed “you have arrived at your destination”. Technically true, but not very helpful. We made it to the park ok though, took pictures from various viewpoints and called it a day.
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| Double rainbow (pic doesn’t do it justice) |
Finally, we wrapped things up with some delicious ice cream at another local place. Pistachio for Robin, Cantaloupe sorbet for Clare, two flavours I didn’t even know COULD be ice cream!
Ok so maybe I’m a bit tired, and I’m not helping Clare as much as I usually do, thus my missing wit that I know you all enjoy. Sad that Clare can’t just fill in for me sometimes. You’d think she’d just know what I want her to write by now.
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| Whatever sized waterfall! |
Tomorrow we head home - another long car day. Hopefully there will be enough brain space when we get home to share any last stories I acquire. Until then…
Whatever!